As always, Paris came up trumps with a glorious last leg of Fashion Week’s month-long European Spring/Summer 2015 tour. Four astonishingly talented designers—all illustrious members of the Swarovski Collective—showed off heart-stopping design skills with sparkling aplomb.
Inspired by François Truffaut’s film The Wild Child, Wijnant’s collection fused crafty artisan techniques with modern fabrics and cool, relaxed silhouettes in interesting fabrics such as coated linens and latex. Haphazard motifs were outlined with dazzling Swarovski crystals on caramel-toned shifts, while crumpled grass-green parkas were worn insouciantly over softly multicolored, embellished mini dresses, perfect for the super-luxe festival-goer. Crisp white day looks were edged up with chunky crystal-detailed bombers; while for evening, deconstructed ‘oil-effect’ midi skirts were paired with daringly sheer tank tops smattered with chunky crystals. As beautiful as it was unusual.
Four years into his fledgling womenswear line, and Doma is storming through the fashion ranks. For Spring/Summer 2015, his woman had a cool utilitarian edge, accented for the very first time with Swarovski crystals. It was a masterclass in outré tailoring: a tuxedo jacket with one sleeve richly encrusted with jet-black crystals from Swarovski; the midriff of a waistcoat, along with the pocket of an oversize sleeveless sash coat (surely the ‘It’ piece of the season?), and cuffs similarly semi-embellished. The tantalizing addition of sparing but effective crystal decoration gave a quirky touch to the rich fabrics—all in black—and technical prowess on display. Find out what makes this talented young designer tick in his interview.
Iris Van Herpen
Van Herpen has picked up Paris fashion’s love of the avant garde and truly run with it, her bold work invariably adding a ‘what will she do next?’ frisson to her shows. For her latest collection, she talked of fusing nature and technology. To this end, she conjured extraordinary mesh dress structures reminiscent of chainmail with gravity-defying panniers, given added texture and depth with delicate Swarovski detail. Otherworldly and ethereal, yet at the same time resolutely modern, she used micro webs of lace to veil and at the same time reveal a luminescent flow of crystals, while triacetate is used to punctuate her soft drapes and volumes.
This season, inspired by concrete landscapes that offer up surprising pockets of beauty amid urban decay, Masha Ma retained a cool sports-luxe feel with softened volumes, sending out models wearing cycling masks featuring bold crystal detailing. Cutting her shapes short and close to the body, she balanced figure-hugging fit-and-flare tops with soft, youthful pink mini skirts and dresses enlivened with a trellis-effect pattern of Swarovski crystals. A simple navy skirt was also given a feminine frisson with crystals spotting the hem. Her luxe bomber jackets, with the same trellis detailing, were sure-fire super-hits.
Photography Jason Lloyd-Evans.