Avant-garde designer Kostas Murkudis talks about pairing totally unexpected aesthetics.
Words: Rebecca May Johnson
Berliner Kostas Murkudis, the designer behind a new range of Atelier Swarovski jewelry, enjoys a contradiction. This collection is no exception: “I found some jewelry in a book on Marlene Dietrich so I looked into Thirties Art Deco—a bit twee—then I found images of Siouxsie Sioux, and aggressive punk shapes came into the mix”. The pairing’s visual aesthetics could not be further apart: the cool androgyny of Dietrich against the glam-goth of Sioux. But they produce an appealing chemistry in Murkudis’s designs.
As a former student of the Lette-Verein design school and a one-time protégé of Helmut Lang, Murkudis, 52, enjoys pushing creative boundaries: “I am not retro-referencing—I like to use new things and meld them with the classical”.
This thirst for the new was satisfied by his engagement with crystal: “The innovations in this collection emerged from my trying to use stones in shapes that moved away from the classical prettiness of Swarovski. I felt excited about mixing metal with crystal in beautiful colors, and playing with shapes and proportion”.
Murkudis’s creative balancing act has produced a rapturously received collection that is composedly sensual, like Dietrich, with a visceral dynamic, like Sioux.
Shop his jewelry collection for A/W 2012 online at Atelier Swarovski!
Portrait Picture: Photographer Magnus Reed