Madrid’s vibe is singularly distinct from other catwalk events – and it’s epitomized by the stratospherically glamorous collections from these three top Spanish designers for A/W 12/13.
This lingerie and beachwear powerhouse put on a show that pulsed with color and sensuality, a fantasy blend of Moulin Rouge-meets-Cabaret. Creative director Nuria Sardá and her team showed lingerie that ran the spectrum from exquisitely cut, ultra skimpy to more substantial 1950s looks in the finest satins and silks trimmed with crystal-bedecked fringing and peek-a-boo lace. Accessorized with sexily romantic, revealing dresses and bias-cut gowns in diaphanous chiffons, along with feather and fur boas, it was a collection that bristled with high-octane creativity. The occasion was also the brand’s 50th anniversary and, as bumper celebrations go, this one did it in style.
Another anniversary was also notched up at Madrid: Ion Fiz’s 10 years in fashion design. He marked it with a striking collection revolving around the figure 10: there were 10 each of colors, fabrics and silhouettes, and 10 each of morning, afternoon and evening looks. Renowned for his seamless couture, this collection was meticulously constructed around coats, jackets and dresses made from a single piece of fabric falling and folding naturally around the body. Colors segued from smoky pinks and minks to dramatic turquoise and topaz. For daytime, there was strong and unstructured masculine tailoring accessorized with aviator sunglasses and hats. For evening, he set out to light up the night with delicate gowns in embroidered silks and satins cut to hug the body, which gleamed with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS. Ion Fiz doesn’t hold back: these designs are for men and women who are happy to stand out.
Inspired by the artistic, intellectual and bohemian world of 1970s New York – think Andy Warhol, Yoko Ono and Mia Farrow - Roberto Verino got the show off to a rousing start. This was all about minutely worked, perfectly tailored garments. Highlights for women would have to include his transparent plastic trench coats; cashmere, flannel and fur all imaginatively embellished with lace and beadwork; glamorous Great Gatsby-style cocktail dresses in black that glittered with the brightness of SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS. “Clothing,” he says, “is only important to the extent that it enables the person wearing it to shine.” It’s very clear that the women of Madrid are in for a particularly glam and shiny winter.