Paris Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2014 conveyed a particularly high level of skill and verve. This was most evident from what was shown by the designers of the Swarovski Collective Paris, chosen for their exhilarating creativity and inspired use of crystals.
There was a clear rock-‘n’-roll sentiment running through Alexis Mabille’s collection this season (think lashings of plaid). Extravagant sheer trousers glistening with delicate crystal embellishment, pared with peek-a-boo encrusted sweatshirts, which gave a nod to the current sports luxe trend. He continued this by edging his navy and deep green sweats with pretty floral, black embellishment, adding extravagant crystal chokers and chandelier earrings to give a another glamorous dimension to the collection.
The 1980s illustrator Tony Viramontes was the inspiration for Anthony Vaccarello’s collection, and he chose a concise palette of black, red, white, and gray to convey his vision. He revisited his signature contemporary aesthetic and complemented his sharply tailored black jackets with black polo-neck knits striped with circular red and black crystals.
Swarovski Collective newcomer Tex Saverio boasts an impressive client list that includes Lady Gaga. Beautiful pale gold capes were edged with delicate crystals; knits were given a shot of adrenalin with spider-web crystal crochet; chainmail minis featured jet-black crystal detailing ; and softly draped skirts were also elegantly hand-embellished.
Working with a palette of black, silver, white, and gray, Simoëns sent out his refined vision of power dressing. The strikingly modern collection displayed elements of the 1960s mood that prevailed throughout the season, and featured a boldly striped shift dress and evening gown scattered with crystals, creating a dazzling, metallic effect.
Masha Ma’s latest collection was perhaps her most conceptual to date: origami fabric folds of crisp white satin were fused with dark complex layers, and sweatshirt sleeves were intricately embellished with lattice crystal work. In a subversive nod to Southeast Asia’s hygiene habit, models wore floral-shaped, crystal-embellished surgical masks that gave the collection an arresting, thought-provoking quality.
Photography by Jason-Llyod Evans.