With LC:M (London Collections: Men) now in its fourth season of characteristically innovative design, the rest of the menswear calendar has been seriously upping its game, with much more creative spectacle than ever before.
That, combined with a growing men’s retail market, means we’re in somewhat of a golden menswear age. And so to Milan, where the long established design duo behind Frankie Morello—Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti—conceived their label in 1999, and are certainly showing the young upstarts on the schedule how it should be done.
Embracing their enduring theme of ordered disorder, Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti’s Fall/Winter collection for their Frankie Morello label was a tight display of classic tailoring combined with strong sportswear influences and a little of their signature pizazz. In a tight monochrome palate, they took the current obsession with all things street and reinvented it in their inimitable style. Imagine a short-sleeved gray marl sweatshirt emblazoned with classic basketball numbering, over a fitted black shirt, paired with matching low-slung track bottoms artfully embellished with chunky Swarovski embellishment. Sharply tailored blazers appeared with loose jersey shorts and high-top trainers, and hoods were worn up over black caps jauntily embellished with strong black crystal motifs. The American flavor was echoed in padded black bomber-jackets accompanied by low-slung black trousers with hanging skater key cords. A cheeky touch of Liberace turned up on daring crystal-covered shirt collars, in contrast to brash, sliced-through kneecaps and elbows—a neat idea that translated well.
The ‘ordered disorder’ theme was further underlined by the opulently gilded venue: in choosing to host their modern, strong-spirited collection in such an extravagantly classical setting, the two designers instantly created a visual clash, making their point abundantly clear. As they took their bow in T-shirts emblazoned with the slogan: “I’m not cool”, it was pretty obvious from the wildly appreciative crowd that they weren’t fooling anyone.